241206 Koyasan
Okunoin is a cemetery and sacred area that extends about 2km from the Ichinohashi bridge to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum.
The path is lined on both sides by hundreds of centuries-old towering cedar
trees.
Among the trees are over 200,000 gravestones and memorial pagodas for people
ranging from important figures to commoners.
In the prayer for the Manto-Mange-e ceremony in 832, Kobo Daishi wrote, "When the universe,
all living beings, and nirvana are exhausted, my wish then be fulfilled."
In other words, he made a great vow:
"As long as all living beings in the universe try to attain enlightenment,
as long as they try to become Buddas, as long as people keep seeking nirvana,
I will not finish my prayers.
There is writen stone sign of his vow on the left side of the path.
Every year on August 13th, Candle Festival (Rosoku Matsuri) is held on
the path.
100,000 candles are lit along the path in the precincts of Okunoin from
the Ichinohashi bridge to the Torodo (Lantern Hall).
From 8:00pm, a Buddhist memorial ceremony is held at the Torodo.
The best way to approach Okunoin is to take the bus from Koyasan station
to Ichinohashimaebus stop.
The Okunoin Gokusho (the offering hall) 
The Okunoin Gokusho (the offering hall) is located in Mount Koya in Wakayama
Prefecture.
It is said to have started as a small hermitage built to serve the mausoleum
of Kukai (Kobo Daishi).
Even today, daily offerings to Kobo Daishi are made at the Gokusho and
are carried to the tomb by priests twice a day, at 6am and 10:30am.
To the north of the Gokusho is the Ajimi Jizo.
It is said that these Jizo were originally Aiman and Aigo, two disciples who took care of Kobo Daishi's meals, and were enshrined as Mikuriya Myojin near the Gobyo Bridge.
The food for Kobo Daishi is prepared at the offering hall and placed in
a chest, where it is offered to the Jizo statue by priests called Yuina
and Gyoboushi, and then carried to the Lantern Hall in front of the mausoleum.
This is based on the "Kobo Daishi faith," which believes that
Kukai is still in eternal meditation at the mausoleum, watching over future
generations.
Shojoshin-in 
Shojoshin-in is a special head temple of the Shingon sect, located on the
west side of Ichinohashi Bridge at the entrance to Okunoin, Mount Koya,
Wakayama Prefecture.
The principal image is a statue of Kobo Daishi, which is said to have been carved by Kukai (Kobo Daishi) himself on March 20, 835, the day before his death, with the three characters "Miunkan" written on the back of the statue.
From this, it is called "Twenty Days of the Great Master" and
is currently a secret Buddha.
Every year, on the principal image's festival day (currently April 20),
it is opened to the public and a grand memorial service is held.
Founded by Kukai during the Tencho era (824-833), it was originally called
Kitabo, but was renamed Shojoshin-in by imperial decree, and later, Taira
no Kiyomori's son Munemori rebuilt the temple.
The Tale of the Heike, Volume 10, states that Takiguchi Nyudo, who had
retired to Saga Ojo-in Temple as a monk, climbed Mount Koya to break his
attachment to the flute and lived in the temple.
During the Warring States period(16th century), the temple became a place
of prayer for Uesugi Kenshin, and houses many letters written by Kenshin
and Uesugi Kagekatsu. The temple also manages the Uesugi Kenshin Mausoleum
(a nationally designated Important Cultural Property) in Okunoin semetary.
Satake Yoshishige also performed a memorial service here, and letters from
Satake Yoshiaki and Yoshinori are also in the collection.
Within the grounds is a famous umbrella cherry tree, where Toyotomi Hideyoshi is said to have held a cherry blossom viewing.
Goma prayers are held every day in the goma hall.
Lunch
Koyasan's vegetarian cuisine is based on
Buddhist teachings.
In the spirit of non-killing, all
ingredients are plant-based, and the balance of the five colors, five methods,
and five tastes is important.
Sesame tofu in particular is a
representative dish of Mount Koya, and is made by carefully mixing stone-ground
sesame with kudzu starch.
Its unique texture and flavor have the
effect of balancing the mind and body. "
▼Today's menu
Shojin curry: Soy meat is used in a soup
made with crushed Japanese pepper and a spicy kick.
Nibitasu eggplant: A dish of deep-fried
eggplant boiled in dashi (shiitake mushrooms). Sesame flavor
Vegetable vinegar dish: Vinegared paprika,
radish, and shiitake mushrooms
Rice: Deep-fried vegetables (eggplant,
carrot, sweet potato, shishito pepper) on top
Pickled vegitables: Chinese cabbage + salt
Goma Fire Ritual at Koyasan Temples
The Goma Fire Ritual is a sacred ceremony in Japanese esoteric Buddhism, especially practiced in temples at Koyasan.
It is a powerful prayer ritual aimed at purification, protection, and the
fulfillment of wishes.
During the ceremony, wooden sticks called Gomaki (護摩木) are used to symbolize people's desires, prayers,
or problems.
These wooden sticks are written on by participants with their wishes or
concerns.
The temple's priest then places the Gomaki into the sacred fire, which
is believed to transform these wishes into spiritual energy that reaches
the deities. The fire represents the wisdom of the Buddha, burning away
negative karma and obstacles, and purifying the mind and body.
The Goma ritual is accompanied by chanting and the rhythmic sound of drums, creating a deeply spiritual atmosphere.
It’s a unique and moving experience, open to anyone seeking blessings for themselves or their loved ones.
Many temples in Koyasan offer the Goma ritual, and visitors can participate
by offering their own Gomaki for the ceremony.
Sutra
Copying, Offering sutra and the Heart Sutra
（写経、納経と般若心経）
１ Sutra Copying （写経）
１-１ Background
of Shakyo (Sutra Copying)
Shakyo, or the practice of copying sutras, is a traditional Buddhist activity
that has been carried out for centuries in Japan. It involves writing sacred
Buddhist scriptures, such as the Heart Sutra (Hannya Shingyo), with mindfulness
and devotion.
Mount Koya, a sacred site and the center of Shingon Buddhism, is one of the most renowned places for shakyo experiences.
Temples across Japan also offer this practice, welcoming visitors from all backgrounds.
１-２ Significance
of Shakyo
Shakyo is much more than a calligraphic
exercise; it is considered a form of meditation and spiritual practice. Each
character is written with care and intention, allowing practitioners to focus
their minds and cultivate a sense of calm and inner peace. It is also an act of
devotion and reverence toward Buddhist teachings, as well as an offering to the
Buddhas and Bodhisattvas.
2 Offering Sutra （納経）
２－１ What is Offering sutra (Nōkyō) ?
Nōkyō refers to the act of offering a sutra, such as a completed sutra
copied during a shakyo (sutra copying) experience, to a temple. After participants
carefully write the text using brush and ink, they typically present the
finished sutra to the temple as an offering.
２－２ The Significance of Nōkyō
2-2 2-2-1
A Gesture of Devotion:
2-2-2 Prayer and Merit:
2-2-3 Symbol of Letting Go:
2-2-4 Connection with the Temple and Tradition:
２－３ A Spiritual Cycle
The process of writing, dedicating, and
offering the sutra reflects a cycle of mindfulness, effort, and release. For
many, it is a deeply meaningful way to engage with Buddhism, even if they are
new to the practice.
Whether one participates for religious reasons or as a personal spiritual
experience, nōkyō is a way to leave a part of oneself in a sacred space
while seeking peace and blessings.
３ The Heart Sutra （般若心経）
３－１ What is the Heart Sutra?
The Heart Sutra (Hannya Shingyo in Japanese) is one of the most famous
and concise Buddhist scriptures. It is highly regarded for summarizing
the essence of Buddhist philosophy in just a few lines. Though brief, it
carries profound teachings about the nature of reality and the path to
enlightenment.
３－２ The Core Message of the Heart Sutra
3-2 3-2-1
Emptiness (Shunyata):
3-2-2 Overcoming
Suffering:
3-2-3 Wisdom
(Prajna):
３－３ Famous Line: “Form is emptiness,
emptiness is form”
One of the most famous phrases from the Heart Sutra is:
“Form is emptiness, emptiness is form.”
This line highlights the idea that the material world we experience (form) is
not separate from emptiness but is instead part of it. It encourages us to see
beyond appearances and recognize the interconnected nature of reality.
３－４ Why is the Heart Sutra Important?
The Heart Sutra is not just a philosophical text; it is also a guide for
meditation and practice. Reciting or writing it helps practitioners focus
their minds, reflect on the teachings, and strive for greater understanding
of themselves and the world.
This sutra is often chosen for shakyo (sutra copying) because of its profound
meaning and its manageable length. Through writing or chanting the Heart
Sutra, even visitors who are new to Buddhism can experience its calming
and insightful teachings firsthand.
Seikei-in 成慶院
Seikei-in is located to the south across Daimon-dori from the middle gate
of Danjo Garan temple complex.
It belonged to the Gyonin-kata group in Edo period.
It was founded by Gyoi-Rishi, who is said to have received the imperial
seal of Seikein in 1200 after presenting the temple to Emperor Tsuchimikado.
Its members included the Ouchi clan of Suo and the Takeda clan of Kai (Yamanashi
Pref.).
It was originally located to the north of Saimon-in on the south side of Odawara Valley, but moved to Saiin Valley in 1894, and then to its current location in 1911.
The current group of buildings dates from the late Meiji period onwards.
Temple cafe Seikei-in 寺カフェ成慶院
On the east side of Yochi-in is the temple cafe Seikei-in, with the words
"Takeda Shingen's temple" written at the entrance.
This cafe opened on April 1, 2024.
You can enjoy vegetarian cuisine and sweets made with local fruits while looking out at the garden.
Okunoin and Danjo Garan are considered the
most sacred areas of Koyasan.
The name Garan is derived from Sanskrit,
and means a quiet and secluded place where Buddhist monks may train.
The Garan is where Kobo Daishi actually
began construction himself in the early years of Koyasan’s history.
In 819 the guards, Niutsuhime and
Karibamyojin were enshrined here.
In addition the construction of Great
Stupa, the golden hall and many other buildings had begun during Kobo Daish’s lifetime.
The path leading to the Danjo Garan from
the east is illuminated at night, and in autumn the maple leaves here are
beautiful.
The differences between Buddhism and Esoteric Buddhism (Mikkyo) :
Buddhism, founded by Siddhartha Gautama (the Buddha) in the 5th century BCE in India, focuses on the following core teachings and practices:
Esoteric Buddhism, particularly prominent in the Shingon and Tendai sects in Japan, incorporates more secretive and ritualistic elements. Key aspects include:
Transmission of Teachings:
Rituals and Practices:
Approach to Enlightenment:
Concept of Enlightenment:
In summary, while both Buddhism and Esoteric Buddhism share the same foundational
goals of achieving enlightenment and liberation from suffering, Esoteric
Buddhism incorporates more elaborate rituals, secretive teachings, and
a focus on achieving enlightenment in the present life through specific,
symbolic practices.
The Taizokai Mandala and the Kongokai Mandala of Shingon Buddhism:
The Taizokai Mandala, also known as the Womb World Mandala, represents the physical world and the cosmos from the perspective of compassion and enlightenment. It is associated with the principle of "Dainichi Nyorai" (Mahavairocana Buddha), who embodies the universal truth. This mandala is divided into multiple sections, each containing various deities and bodhisattvas, symbolizing different aspects of spiritual wisdom and compassion. The central figure is Dainichi Nyorai, surrounded by other enlightened beings, illustrating the interconnectedness of all things and the potential for all beings to achieve enlightenment.
The Kongokai Mandala, also known as the Diamond World Mandala, represents the spiritual and indestructible nature of enlightenment. It emphasizes the power and wisdom needed to achieve enlightenment. The central figure in this mandala is also Dainichi Nyorai, but in this context, he represents the unchanging, eternal truth. The mandala is arranged in a highly symmetrical and geometric pattern, symbolizing the clarity and precision of the enlightened mind. The deities in this mandala are associated with different forms of wisdom and power, reflecting the path of rigorous practice and insight.
Both mandalas are used in Shingon Buddhism to aid meditation and visualization practices. Practitioners focus on the detailed images and symbolism within the mandalas to deepen their understanding of Buddhist teachings and to progress on their path to enlightenment. These mandalas serve as maps of the spiritual universe, guiding practitioners through different stages of spiritual development.
In summary:
Both mandalas complement each other, offering a comprehensive framework for understanding and achieving enlightenment in Shingon Buddhism.
Just as Kobo Daishi was departing from Tang China to return to Japan in
806,
he is said to have thrown a three-pointed vajra, a Shingon Buddhist ritual
item, toward Japan from the port of Mingzhou
with the wish of finding a place appropriate for establishing Shingon Buddism
in Japan.
After returning to Japan he serched for the study center of the Shingon Buddhism.
He came to Koyasan and found the three pointed vajra lodged in the pine
tree.
Since then, the pine tree has been called the Sanko no Matsu, or the three-pointed
Vajra Pine Tree,
and is popularly connected with faith in Kobo Daishi.
Pine needles usually come in clusters ranging from two to five needles,
the needles of Sanko no Matsu however, are in clusters of three, like the
three-pointed vajra it is named after.
Visitors today treat needles of Sanko no Matsu as talismans and keep them
as lucky charms.
1 Major English Web Sites
Kongobuji
A Guide to Koyasan
Okunoin Cemetery Night Tour Night tour information
Koyasan Cross-cultural Communication Network(KCCN)
2 Activities in Koyasan
Koyasan Trekking English Guide (KTEG)
Powdered Green Tea Experience
3 Access Information by train and bus
Koyasan Access Map by Train
Train and Bus timetable from Osaka
(Weekdays AM PM) (Weekends and holidays AM PM)
Bus and Train timetable from Koyasan (Soujiin) to Osaka (Namba)
( Weekdays AM PM ) (Weekends and Holidays AM PM )
Nankai Rinkan Bus
Bus service to Kumano
Access to Kyoto Shinkansen Kumanohongu Nara
Nankai Railway
Kyoto-Koyasan Direct Highway Bus Service Apr.12 - Nov.24, 2024
Non-stop bus service to KIX (Kansai International Airport) Oct.1 - Nov.30,2021
4 Access information by car
Route from Osaka to Koyasan
5 Other Web Sites
Koyasan Restaurant Map for Lunch for Dinner
The Official Wakayama Travel Guide
BBC travel Wakayama prefecture
Kansai scene
Japan the Official Guide
Consumer Hotline for Tourists
Kansai finder
Kotori
Kisho-horai
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